The Inn Crowd

Travelers are becoming more conscious of their impact on the planet and local communities, and the Good Hotel is helping close the gap between intention and action. A traditional Guatemalan mansion with rooms renovated in blonde wood and marble, The Good Hotel donates all of its profits to a local NGO providing education for kids. It’s premium hospitality with plenty of heart. (P.S. Look out for the tiny Guatemalan worry doll – a little woven figure said to remove worries overnight – placed under your pillow.) 

Antigua’s original boutique hotel, Meson Panza Verde, was built in 1986 and retains its reputation as one of the best places to stay in the city. Twelve rooms decorated in rich shades of sand and merlot boast volcanic landscape views that are best savored from adjoining balconies. Another plus about staying at Meson Panza Verde is its award-winning restaurant. Dine on international cuisine and sip rare wines in the romantic ambiance of the Main Sala, a grand space with a vaulted ceiling and open fireplace.   

The historic Hotel Palacio de Doña Leonor was once home to Doña Leonor, the daughter of the Spanish conqueror, Don Pedro de Alvarado. These days it’s an immaculately renovated hotel composed of seven sumptuous rooms with intricately painted ceilings, surrounding a lush, overgrown courtyard. Hidden among the tropical flora you’ll find a jacuzzi pool created to soothe tired muscles at the end of a sightseeing session. 

The Table

In the morning, stop by Cafe Condesa for a to-go order of coffee and cheesecake. Walk outside and find a breakfast spot under Parque Central’s purple jacarandas while watching lovers hover hopefully near the fertility fountain.  

When you’re ready for lunch, head to the Santa Domingo Hotel, which offers a free shuttle to a beautiful hilltop restaurant with views of the city, called Cerro San Cristobal. This place is as farm-to-table as it gets. After your meal, stroll through sunflower-filled gardens past veggie patches where your meal was growing a short while ago. Alternatively, grab a table by Ta'cool, a casual, trendy spot with a large array of satisfying taco varieties. 

For dinner, Funky recommends Welten Restaurant. Its German proprietor hired 10 Guatemalan female chefs to collaborate on a menu of international dishes and local specialties for her establishment. The resulting food is really great, but the ambiance is where Welten really shines. Funky calls it “the most beautiful dining spot in town,” specifically the courtyard, which contains a swimming pool decorated with pink and red rose petals. “At night, it is lit beautifully by hanging lights, but by day you have a lovely view of the volcano in the distance,” she notes. Don’t be surprised if you see a proposal. 

For a meal with a view, locate the blue facade of the popular hostel Hacia El Sur and ascend to its rooftop, where you’ll find Cafe Sky. The food here is comprised of solid Central and South American favorites (fried plantains, rice and beans, nachos with all the toppings), but it’s the panoramic views of volcanoes and Spanish architecture that really makes this a special place to dine – especially as the sun is going down. 

The Last Call

Curious patrons of Antigua Brewery, a popular craft beer spot, will notice a misplaced classic British phone booth in the back. This is actually the entrance to a speakeasy spot called Ulew, which serves custom cocktails from a space that used to be the kitchen of an old stone mansion. “Ulew does not have a menu,” says Funky. “Tell the bartender your liquor of choice and preferred flavors, and he will mix something just for you.”

Equally as enticing after dark is Café No Sé, a cave-like bar lit by copious candles. There are actually three bars: the front, where live music is a fixture; the back, where cocktails are the focus; and a secret mezcal bar hidden behind a fridge door. To add to its maze-like layout, the mezcal bar adjoins a book shop via swinging saloon doors. This is the expat hangout of choice in Antigua.