A Travel Guide to the Best of Cartagena, Colombia
A travel guide to the best of CartagenaĀ
With its colonial cobbled streets and balconies spilling bougainvillea over jewel-colored doorways, few cities can rival Cartagena in terms of sheer beauty. But the appeal of Colombiaās most worshiped tourist town extends beyond pure aesthetics.Ā Ā
āI discover something new each time I set foot in Cartagena,ā explains Colombia-born travel editor Nikki Vargas, who has visited the city five times. āI find that, much like New York, the distinct personalities of each of Cartagena's neighborhoods offer something special for travelers. Getsemani has its artistic flair and nightlife, Bocagrande can be likened to Miami's South Beach, but my heart rests in the Old City with its history and charm.ā
Here, we share the activities and establishments that draw Vargas back with each visit.Ā
The Must-Do
The pleasure of wandering through Cartagenaās Old Town, eating watermelon from palenqueras (the colorfully dressed ladies selling fruit), and people-watching in shaded town squares canāt be overestimated. If youāre curious about the cityās history, make the trip to Castillo San Felipe de Barajas, a fortress and UNESCO World Heritage Site on the Hill of San LĆ”zaro. Plan to go early or late, though. The castle lacks shade and noon visitors can end up āfeeling like an egg on a frying pan,ā as Vargas puts it.Ā
While Cartagena primarily offers a classic city-break, vacationers craving some sand-between-toes time wonāt be disappointed, either. Take a 45-minute boat from the port over to Isla BarĆŗ, a Caribbean island of the most quintessential variety: calm aquamarine ocean and pale sand striped by palm fronds. You can do a day trip, but Vargas recommends staying overnight at Playa Manglares, an elegant eco-lodge with a farm-to-table restaurant and private beach. āBest of all, the hotel is only a short drive from Playa Blanca, Isla BarĆŗās most beautiful and popular beach, so you can beat the day-tripping crowds and banana boats,ā she adds.Ā
If youāre looking for a romantic way to wrap up the day, a Sibarita sunset boat cruise is the move. Sail around the Cartagena harbor as the sky blushes, enjoying a multi-course meal and a bottle of wine.Ā
Inn Crowd
Miami-based Colombian fashion designer Silvia Tcherassi owns two hotels in Cartagena ā Tcherassi Hotel & Spa and MansiĆ³n Tcherassi ā which are as stylish as youād expect. The former is situated in a restored colonial building with thoroughly modern interiors, a neutral color palette, and a rooftop pool. The latter, a smaller and more luxurious hotel, was once an 18th-century mansion and boasts a vertical garden, courtyard plunge pool, library of coffee table books, and metallic accents throughout.Ā
A short distance away is another example of excellently executed restoration: Hotel Casa San AgustĆn. Across its 20 guest rooms and 11 suites, youāll spot many classic architectural features including original frescoes and centuries-old wood-beamed ceilings. In terms of perks that go the extra mile, the hotel offers an unpacking service, free bicycle rental, and transfers to the hotelās private beach on Isla BarĆŗ.
The Table
As the star of Anthony Bourdainās Parts Unknown Cartagena episode, La CevicherĆa normally has a sizable line for a table. It will be worth that wait though ā the restaurantās fresh seafood and fish, saturated with mandarin and lemon juice and tossed with fruit and herbs, is some of the best ceviche in a city abundant with the dish.Ā Ā
With live music and whirring ceiling fans, La Vitrola channels something of a Havana vibe, right down to its famous tangy-sweet mojitos. The menu skews Caribbean-fusion, think catch-of-the-day sloshed with citrus, drizzled with honey, or fired up with chili and spices, and a wedge of moist coconut cake for dessert. As the night amps up and the cocktails flow, dancing is encouraged.Ā
Demente, an open-roof spot serving tapas and legitimately delicious pizza alongside craft beer and great cocktails, is set amid the buzzy atmosphere of GetsemanĆ. Whether you go for lunch or dinner, itās an ideal jumping-off point to explore Cartagenaās trendiest, street-art adorned neighborhood. Ā Ā
The Last Call
If watching a blazing sunset with an icy sangria in hand sounds like an appealing way to end the day, Vargas recommends CafĆ© del Mar. The scene-y (and scenic) bar occupies an elevated spot on the walls of the Old City, washing it in golden rays until the moment the sun vanishes below the horizon. Although sunset is the main event here, expect DJs and dancing until 2am.Ā
Itās hard not to be drawn in by the music and laughter radiating from Salsa Donde Fidel, a tiny dancing spot thatās always crowded and lively. You can stop by for a drink, but donāt expect to be propping up the bar for very long ā there are plenty of locals happy to provide an impromptu lesson for the salsa-curious.Ā
If cocktails are your thing, then AlquĆmico, which prides itself on its flavor alchemy, should be on your evening hit list. An impressive space with soaring ceilings, walls lined with glass jars of fruit-infused rums, and a huge square bar, AlquĆmico has an elegant ambiance that chimes with its elevated-but-experimental cocktail list.Ā
